jan koval

nie zostawie na tobie suchej nitki chociaz obiecujacy jest skret w 9 secundzie drugiego filmu pare rad jezeli masz jakiegos doradce/trenera - wykop go jezeli nie uzywasz ochron na kolana i lokcie - duzy blad - co by tez tlumaczylo by bojazliwa technike…. siedzenie na tylach notoryczne wlasnie powoduje spoznienie skretu - to jest to oczym mowil niko- w pewnych fazach skretu pojscie na tyly ulatwia skret i przyspiesza POD WARUNKIEM ze powracasz do pozycji zrownowazonej zaraz i …nie jestes body miller duzy plus za zamieszczenie filmow!!!!!!!

aferra to nie jest forum bikeforum.pl just kidding!!! co to jest za potwor??? niezly riser!!

na wstepie prosze naszych niemilych adminow *just kidding) o nieprzeniesienie tego watku do hyde park ,, gdyxz samochod zawozacy nas na narty jest integralna czescia sprzetu ok??? chcialem sie zarejestrowac na skionline, zeby dorzucic pare uwag nt "auto dla narciarza" bo nie chcialem zasmiecac skiforum ale zarejestrowac mi sie nie udalo, bo na pytanie o stolice austrii (wieden chyba tak??) tak to wpisalem no i oczywiscie komputer skionline prawdopodobnie nie rozpoznal wiednia jako wiednia bo nie mam poslkich liter a do checi zarejestrowania sklonily mnie bzdury, wypisywane w tym aucie dla narciarzy zwlaszcza wychwalanie tourag'a….. bylo to pierwsze SUV ktore z mety zostalo odrzucone przeze mnie, gdy "musielismy" kupic SUV - ciezkie to , nie idzie do przodu, chyba ze z v-8 co od razu winduje cene o 10k w gore w wersji v-6 tragedia w porownaniu do toyoty 4-runner v-6 ziemia i niebo (nide mowiac juz o 4R V8),,, z pozostalych, bralismy pod uwage LR2, M-class, X-5, Q-7, MDX acura i RX 350……. wygral 4R v/8 (ale to juz na marginesie) ktos tez tam rzucil, ze np defender i wrangler to nie sa prawdziwe terenowki hmmm tak jak nie lubie land rover'a tak akurat defender jet tym wlasnie autem terenowym. a o wrangler'ze juz nie mowie. poza egzotycznymi autami (jak lamborghini jeep) chyba w zasadzie 3 modele wlasnie zasluguja na nazwe prawdziwych sam terenowych (zaznaczam ze nie znam z bylego demoludu oprocz gazika) wrangler G-class defender ludzie zachwycaja sie np range rover - przecie ma to przeswitu zaledwie 60% tego co subaru outback… no wiec w koncu pytanie (chcialbym odpowiedzi opartych na osobistych doswiadczeniach a nie google-based) jaki samochod najlepiej sie sprawdzal/a na twoich wyjazdach narciarskich???? (skionline przepraszam za skopiowanie tematu, ale nie zamierzam spedzac cennego czasu na poszukiwanie dojsc do rejestracji - rownoczesnie, zapraszam do wypowiedzi tutaj tez) Użytkownik jan koval edytował ten post 12 grudzień 2010 - 16:59

ciekawe co piszesz bo mojaa corka wlasnie dobrala do swojej kolekcji tecnica agent (nr wlasnie 25) a ma waska stope poza tym zasadznicza roznica to nie last buta a cos o czym juz wielokrotnie pisalem……..

czesto spotyka sie telemarkowcow, popieprzajacych poza trasami w g skalistych..... ich rytm i atakowanie terenu jest taki sam jak freeridowcow, jedyna roznica to noga zewn do przodu oczywscie uzywaja coraz szerszych nart, czasami typowo zjazdowych, montuja tylko wiazania tele. od biedy mozna tez na wiazaniach AT

to jest od poczatku do konca telemark (tylko w jednym fragmencie facet sie wyraznie wyglupia jadac "smigiem")

moze troche ogolnego spojrzenia - zaznaczam,z e nie jest moja podspecjalnoscia chor kregoslupa wieku dojrzalego, bo nigdy mi sie to nie opdobalao ale jest wiele rzeczy , ktore gmatwaja sprawe i sprawiaja, ze jest wiele niedomowien odnosnie leczenia operacyjnego moze pare watkow do zastanowienia - oczywistym jest , ze istnieje parcie chirurgow i przemyslu ortopedycznego do poszukiwania optymalnego leczenia, takze operacyjnego, w schorzeniach kregoslupa. i robimy sie w tym z dnia na dzien lepsi (np rpoteza dysku zamiast wywalanie go) - operawanie kregoslupa ze wzgledu na bol, bez obiektywnych wykladnikow mechanicznego ucisku, jest jednym z najbardziej naduzywanych operacji - klasycznym wskazaniem do leczenia operacyjnego jest OSTRY zespol tzw cauda equina oraz dysfukcja pecherza/zwieraczy ze zmianami w MRI ktore KORESPONDUJA z objawami klinicznymi (opadanie stopy L5 mozna w to wliczyc) - jest kilka odrebnych lingo ?slangow - inny jezyk jest uzywany przez uczciwych i fachowych lekarzy, inny przez tzw chiropractors, inny przez konowalow oraz kregarzy - kazda grupa zawodowa ma swoje racje, problemmem jest to, ze czasami trudno znalezc osobnika, ktory przedstawi za i przeciw....\\ - od razu sie tu nasuwa dyskusja nad "leczeniem" skoliozy odpowiednio "dobranymi" cwiczeniami, plywaniem lub elektrostymulacja.. - generalnie, prawidlowo dobrane operacje z porzadnych wskazan, maja wiekszy odsetek powodzenia w zakresie kregoslupa szyjnego niz L/S - i jako zasade w leczeniu ortopedycznym - jezeli ktos ci mowi, ze MUSISZ miec jakas operacje ortopedyczna, bez przedstawienia za i przeciw, lepiej jest zasiegnac second opinion......

moze ktos ci podpowie kogos rozsadnego w twojej okolicy???? odpowiedz typu - niech boli albo "niech nie jezdzi" to po prostu kpina z pacjenta….

troche poparzylo……….hm masz szczescie jonoforeza ma za zadanie przemycic pewne substancje (np sterydy) po pow skory. w zasadzie trudno poparzyc, ale oczywiscie jezelidasz maxa i trzymasz nie wiadomo jak dlugo, pojawi sie odczyn zapalny skory.

jezeli to jest haglund to zaden sidas nie ma znaczenia Heski - oczywiscie, nieswoiste zabiegi pzapalne jak ultradzwieki, iontophoresis etc etc maja szanse powodzenia. dlatego mowilem, ze normalny ortopeda miejscowy powinien byc pomocny oczywiscie, leczenie jest zindiwidualizowne, ale z tego co efcia pisze, zadne leczenie jeszcze nie mialo miejsca….

badz ostrozna, powinnas znalezc kogos, kto sie specjalizuje w tych problemach ( tutaj to sie nazywa ortho surgeon with fellowship in foot and ankle surgey). jezeli cos moge pomoc to daj mi znac

to czy masz "ostrogi" czy nie, jest sprawa drugorzedna. inaczej mowic, jest tyle samo ludzi cierpiacymi na plantar fascitis, z "ostrogami" na rtg i bez nich. plantar fascitis jest najpowszechniejsza przyczyna bolu piet i kazdy , nawet niedouczony ortopeda, powinien byc w stanie Tobie pomoc sa 2 inne rodzaje ""wyrosli" kostnych (Haglund i wyrosla na tylno-bocznej lub przysrodkowej pow k pietowej), ktore wymagaja czasami leczenia bardziej agresywnego (wlacznie z operacyjnym) PS;oczywiscie zakladam, ze op[isujesz zmiany w obrebie k pietowej a nie np kostki bocznej lub przysrodkowej

For starters, most people are aware that you must replace a helmet after any crash where your head hit. The foam part of a helmet is made for one-time use, and after crushing once it is no longer as protective as it was, even if it still looks intact. Bear in mind that if the helmet did its job most people would tell you that they did not even hit their head, or did not hit their head that hard. And the thin shells on most helmets now tend to hide any dents in the foam. But if you can see marks on the shell or measure any foam crush at all, replace the helmet. (Helmets made of EPP foam do recover, but there are few EPP helmets on the market. Yours is EPS or EPU unless otherwise labeled.) You can also crack the helmet foam or damage it by dropping the helmet on a hard surface. The cracks may be small and hard to see, so you need to look carefully. Cracks in the foam always require replacement of the helmet. You may be reluctant to replace a helmet that looks almost as good as new, but if you did hit, you don't want to take chances on where you will hit next time. If the foam is cracked under the thin shell, it will be more likely to fly apart in your next crash. Many manufacturers will replace crashed helmets for a nominal fee, and most will also inspect crashed helmets to see if they need replacement. Call them if you are in doubt. For contact info check our list of manufacturers. (You can also ask them if they think the advice on this page is valid!} Is it from the 70's? If you still have a helmet from the 70's without a styrofoam liner, replace it immediately. That would include the Skidlid (with spongy foam), 1970's Pro-tec (spongy foam), Brancale (no foam) and all leather "hairnets." They just did not have the protection of helmets made after 1984 when the ANSI standard swept the junk off the market. The better 1970's helmets were reasonably good ones, but were not quite up to current standards. It is probably time to replace that old Bell Biker, Bailen, MSR, Supergo or similar model from the 70's or early 80's. (We have a page up on replacing the Bell Biker.) The hard shells were great, but the foam liners were not thick enough to meet today's ASTM or Snell standard. The Bell V-1 Pro was designed to today's standards, but the foam is very stiff, and if you are over 65 you probably should replace that too. If you have one of the 1980's all-foam helmets with perhaps a cloth cover, we would recommend replacing that one. Lab tests showed some years ago that bare foam doesn't skid well on pavement, and could jerk your neck in a crash. The cloth doesn't help much. In addition, some of them had no internal reinforcing, and they tend to break up in a crash. That's not serious if you just fall, but if you are hit by a car the helmet can fly apart in the initial contact and leave you bare-headed for the crack on the pavement. Is it newer? With what standards sticker inside? Newer helmets from the late 1980's and the 90's may or may not need replacement. First look to see what standards sticker is inside. If it's ASTM or Snell, the helmet was designed to meet today's standards for impact protection, and you may even find that Consumer Reports tested it in one of their articles. Most manufacturers now recommend that helmets be replaced after five years, but some of that may be just marketing. (Bell now recommends every three years, which seems to us too short. They base it partially on updating your helmet technology, but they have not been improving their helmets that much over three year periods, and we consider some of their helmets since the late 1990's to be a step backwards, so we would take that with a grain of salt.) Deterioration depends on usage, care, and abuse. But if you ride thousands of miles every year, five years may be a realistic estimate of helmet life. And helmets have actually been improving enough over time to make it a reasonable bet that you can find a better one than you did five years ago. It may fit better, look better, and in some cases may even be more protective. For an alternate view that agrees with the manufacturers, check out the helmet FAQ of the Snell Foundation. Snell knows a lot about helmets and their views on this subject should not be dismissed lightly, even though we disagree with them. Occasionally somebody spreads rumors that sweat and ultraviolet (UV) exposure will cause your helmet to degrade. Sweat will not do that. The standards do not permit manufacturers to make a helmet that degrades from sweat, and the EPS, EPP or EPU foam is remarkably unaffected by salt water. Your helmet will get a terminal case of grunge before it dies of sweat. Sunlight can affect the strength of the shell material, though. Since helmets spend a lot of time in the sun, manufacturers usually put UV inhibitors in the plastic for their shells that control UV degradation. If your helmet is fading or showing small cracks around the vents, the UV inhibitors may be failing, so you probably should replace it. Chances are it has seen an awful lot of sun to have that happen. Otherwise, try another brand next time and let us know what brand faded on you. At least one shop told a customer that the EPS in his three year old helmet was now "dried out." Other sales people refer to "outgassing" and say that the foam loses gas and impact performance is affected. Still others claim that helmets lose a percentage of their effectiveness each year, with the percentage growing with age. All of that is nothing but marketing hype to sell a replacement helmet before you need it. There is some loss of aromatics in the first hours and days after molding, and helmet designers take account of that for standards testing. But after that the foam stabilizes and does not change for many years, unless the EPS is placed in an oven for some period of time and baked. The interior of your car, for example, will not do that, based on helmets we have seen and at least one lab crash test of a helmet always kept in a car in Virginia over many summers. Helmet shells can be affected by car heat, but not the foam. The Snell Memorial Foundation has tested motorcycle helmets held in storage for more than 20 years and found that they still meet the original standard. EPS is a long-lived material little affected by normal environmental factors. Unless you mistreat it we would not expect it to "dry out" enough to alter its performance for many years. An honest manufacturer: MET The Italian company MET says in their 2010 catalog: "We are often asked 'For how long is a helmet safe?', or 'how often should I replace my helmet?”' Until now it has been difficult to find any reliable figures to help answer these queries. MET have now developed a series of tests which are conducted on aged helmets to determine a 'best before' date (unless the helmet is involved in an accident. In that case it should be replaced immediately.). The results indicate that, if used properly accordingly to our owner manual, our helmets will still do their job up to eight years after they have been made. Not only is that good news for the customer, it’s great news for the environment!" We applaud MET for undertaking an actual testing program on helmet life and for making that statement. We regard it as a triumph of integrity over marketing. MET's helmets are made with industry standard shells and liners, so there is no reason we can see that their recommendation should not be good for many other helmet brands as well. If another manufacturer comes up with a testing program that shows earlier deterioration in the protection from their products we will review this page. In sum, we don't find the case for replacing a helmet that meets the ASTM or Snell standards that compelling if the helmet is still in good shape and fits you well. Are you using it for non-bicycle activities? Since 2003 helmets have been available that are actually certified to skateboard or ski standards as well as the CPSC bicycle helmet standard. If you are using a bicycle helmet for skateboarding or any other sport where you crash regularly, see our writeup on helmets for the current season for more info on that. Otherwise, we would recommend buying another helmet designed for the activity you are pursuing, whether or not you replace your bike helmet. We have more on that subject on our page on other helmets. Note that most "skate-style" helmets currently on the market are actually bicycle helmets certified only to the CPSC bicycle helmet standard. They have CPSC stickers inside, but no ASTM Skateboard standard sticker. Do you still like wearing it? Your helmet is of course a piece of wearing apparel as well as a safety appliance. If you consider yourself a stylish rider and your helmet is not as spiffy as the new ones, go for it. There is nothing wrong with wanting to look good, and if you do, fashion is a valid reason to replace a helmet. Is it a better helmet than the ones available today? As new styles have become more "squared-off" and designers have begun adding unnecessary ridges and projections that may increase the sliding resistance of a helmet shell, there is good reason to stay with one of the more rounded designs of the early to mid 90's. Those round, smooth shells like the original Bell Image that Consumer Reports rated highly in 1993 are more optimal for crashing than some of the newer designs. So think twice about "moving up," and look for a rounded, smooth-shelled design when you do. We have a lot of info on the new ones up on our page on helmets for the current season. Inspecting a Helmet We have a page up with step by step instructions on how to inspect a helmet.

oczywiste przyczyny wymiany kasku : - po dzwonie - po upadku kasku na twarda pow, tak ze wysciolka pokazuje pekniecie - kaski bez pokrywy/skorupy plastikowej ( w calosci ze styropianu lub z powloka materialowa) - wyprodukowane w latach 70 -tych (ha ha) - nie ma odpowiedniego atestu - nie mozna wlasciwie dopasowac podaje w calosic ciekawy artykul wynika z niego ze - pot nie wplywa na wlasciwosci tlumiace - nikt w zasadzie nie wyznaczyl norm dlugosci uzywania kasku - twierdzenie, ze po 3 latach - jest belkotem - firmy twierdza (ale pod stolem) ze kask nie powinien sie za bardzo zmienic (w sensie wlasciwosci tlumiacych0 az do 5-8 lat po wyprodukowaniu - UV jest szkodliwe dla skorupy kasku, natomiast fabryki nanosza substancje blokujace UV - oczywiscie nie nalezy zostawiac kasku w b wysokiej temp (zamkniety samochod, tylna polka). co do nowych kaskow z wloknami weglowymi lub kevlar - brak danych (CVhemik moze ty bys uzupelnil??) - nie ma wskazan do wozenia ze soba podrecznej lodowki (to juz zart nt wypowiedzi) osobiscie ( a moj kask jest chyba 4-tym lub 5-tym z kolei) nie spieszac sie, wymienil bym po 5 latach - nawet oddychalna wysciolka po 5 latach nie odprowadza potu, a poza tym jest tyle nowych designs!!! "na szczescie" ja nie mialem takiego dylematu , bo kazdorazowa wymiany byla wymuszona dobrym dzwonem…. moj nastepny text zawiera oryginalny artykul, nie chcial sie tutaj zmiescic Użytkownik jan koval edytował ten post 28 listopad 2010 - 20:32

sam nie montuje, bo nie mam czasu, a poza tym nigdy tego nie robilem, wiec nie bede ryzykowal. zaznaczam pozycje ktora chce.

stale moja intencja jest nie obrazanie ( ha ha) - ale - skoro mowisz o BOF, musisz podac sposob ,w jaki ten BOF znajdujesz??? Ball of the foot jest to "spod" PIECIU stawow tzw MTP...... czyli oczywistym jest, ze najpierw trzeba ten BOF znalezc a pozniej sie zastanawiac nad jego pozycja w stos do srodka narty

no nie zawsze pod wzgledem komfortu byly 3 generacje rotamatow: pierwsza (znam z historii) gdzie tylna sprezyna sie wypinala z uchwytu i trzeba bylo ja wcisnac (np na mrozie , ktory jest czestym gosciem w zimie) dtuga: speezyna nie wypadala, ale trzeba bylo sie schylic, zeby podciagnac pietke coby sie zatrzasnela trzecia i ostatnia; step-in

skoro masz prywatnego ortopede to powinien ci prywatnie poradzc, czy nie??? np postepowanie pooperacyjne a takich przypadkach uzaleznione jest od metozy reconstrukcji wiezadla, rodzaju uzytego tzw suture anchors i wielu innych czynnikow, ktore mozna poznac po dokladnym przestudiowaniu opisu operacyjnego i ew zdjec rtg - a osoba, ktora wie najlepiej co zrobiono, jest wlasnie ow prywatny ortopeda….

co to BOF? nie spotkalem sie z ta definicja. poza tym jak wyznaczysz sroedk w nartach z reversed camber???

troche takie "rady" mie dziwia, bo nikt nie zna szczegolowej diagnozy, nikt nie wie co faktycznie bylo uszkodzone i jak naprawione, ale rady sypia sie jak z rekawa…………...

troche tak dlatego ze nie mam za bardzo co robic - oprocz chodzenia na sale 2x dziennie po 45 min - tak sobie wpadlem na nast pytanie ; czy ktos z szanownych narciarzy zamierza w tym sezonie wydobyc stare narty i przejechac sie na nich??? ja to robie praktycznie w kazdym sezonie co najmniej pol dnia - jest to niezapomniane przezycie, pozwala troche zweryfikowac latwizne jazdy na nartach taliowanych.. prosilbym o opisy, jezli ktos to zrobi

michal - ladny film ale wnioskuje przeniesc to do dzialu komercyjnego - za bardzo traci reklama…… BTW czy masz tam time-sharing???

wtracasz tu dwa watki: choroby wysokogorskiej i lokomocyjnej co do wysokogorskiej - diamox jest najlepszym rozwiazaniem co do lokomocyjnej; dwa trcks - po pierwsze osoba powinna skupiac wzrok na horyzoncie a nie na bliskich obiektach, najlepiej patrzc z jednym okiem przyslonietym po drugie - z niewaidomego powodu, zucie gumy (!!!!!!) zmniejsza objawy mozna tez farmakologicznie (dramamine)…. oczywiscie lecz farmakologiczne powinno byc skonsultowane z lek domowym!!

nie wiedzialem ze audi ma blokade raczej ma spear diff a nie sztywna blokade, ale moge sie mylis znam tylko 2 samochody terenowe majace sztywna blokade 2 osi i centralnego diff- sa to jeep wrangler i merc G class…. oczywiscie najbardziej skuteczny system 4x4 w extremalnych warunkach to taki, w ktorym "na sztywno" zablokowano diff przedniej, tylnej osi ale takze diff pomiedzy nimi a to quatro kilku generacji quattro generation I Used from 1981 to 1987 in Audi Quattro turbo coupé, Audi 80 B2 platform (1978–1987) (Audi 4000 in North American market), Audi 100 C3 platform (1983–1987) (Audi 5000 in North American market). Also, starting from 1984, used on the Volkswagen VW Passat B2 platform (VW Quantum in the US market) where it was known as Syncro. System type: Permanent four-wheel drive. Open centre differential, manually lockable via switch on centre console. ¹ Open rear differential, manually lockable via switch on centre console. ¹ Open front differential, no lock. ¹ - ABS disabled when locked. How does the system perform: When all differentials are unlocked the car will not be able to move if one wheel of front and rear loses traction (is on ice or raised in the air). When center differential locked, the car will not able to move if two opposite front and rear wheels loses traction and one of another's wheels. When rear differential locked the car will not be able to move if two rears and one front wheel loses traction. When both center and rear differential are locked, the car will not be able to move when all four wheels loses traction. [edit]quattro generation II Starting from 1988 on older generation Audi 100 C3 platform and Audi Quattro turbo coupé until the end of their production, and on new generation B3 platform (1989–1992) Audi 80/90 quattro, B4 platform (1992–1995) Audi 80, Audi Coupé quattro, Audi S2, Audi RS2 Avant, C4 platform (1991–1994) Audi 100 quattro, Audi S4, earlier C4 platform (1995) Audi A6/S6. System type: Permanent four-wheel drive. Torsen centre differential, 50:50 'default' split, automatically apportioning up to 75% of torque transfer to either axle. Open rear differential, manually lockable via switch on centre console located next to handbrake. ¹ Open front differential, no lock. ¹ - ABS disabled when locked, automatically unlocks if speed exceeds 25 km/h (16 mph). How does the system perform: When rear differential is manually locked, the car will not be able to move if one front wheel and both rear wheels lose traction altogether. [edit]quattro generation III Used only on the Audi V8 starting from 1988 to 1994. System type: Permanent four-wheel drive. V8 with automatic transmission: Planetary gear centre differential with electronically-controlled multi-plate locking clutch Torsen type 1 differential rear. Open differential front. V8 with manual transmission: Torsen type 1 centre differential. Torsen type 1 rear differential. Open front differential. How does the system perform: In on-road conditions the car will not be able to move if one front and both rear wheels lose traction altogether. Torsen effect with one wheel in the air still applicable to V8 with manual transmission, but will not happen on V8 with automatic transmission because center differential on this model offers 100% locking even when no torque is sensed on the spinning wheel. Manual transmission cars will have a more rear wheel drive feel to it due to torque being maintained to the outside rear wheel while cornering with torque applied, this will allows for better attitude during cornering and power on over-steer is easier to achieve. [edit]quattro generation IV [citation needed] Starting from 1995 on Audi A4 / S4 / RS4 (B5 platform), Audi A6 / S6 / allroad / RS6, Audi A8 / S8 with both manual and automatic transmissions. Also on VW Passat B5, where it was initially referred to as syncro, but by the time it reached US soil, it had been re-christened 4motion. Also used on the Volkswagen Phaeton and Volkswagen Group D platform sister vehicles. The Volkswagen Touareg used 4Xmotion with a separate transmission, PTUs and front axles. The manually locking rear differential from the earlier generations was replaced with a conventional open differential, with "Electronic Differential Lock" (EDL) (which detects wheelspin via ABS road wheel speed sensors, and applies brakes to the one spinning wheel, thus transferring torque via open differential to the opposite wheel which has more traction). EDL works at speeds up to 80 km/h (50 mph) on all quattro models (on non-quattro models: up to 40 km/h (25 mph). System type: Permanent four-wheel drive. Torsen type 1 centre differential, 50:50 'default' split, automatically apportioning up to 75% of torque transfer to either front or rear axle. Open rear differential, Electronic Differential Lock (EDL).[4] Open front differential, Electronic Differential Lock (EDL).[4] [edit]quattro generation V Starting with the B7 Audi RS4 and the manual transmission version of the 2006 B7 Audi S4. It was adopted in the entire S4 lineup in 2007.[1] and become the standard fitment on all quattro Audis with longitudinal engine layout until replaced in the 2010 RS5. System type: Permanent asymmetric four-wheel drive. Torsen type 3 (Type "C") centre differential, 40:60 'default' split front-rear, automatically apportioning up to 70% of torque transfer to the front axle or up to 85% torque to the rear axle. Open rear differential, Electronic Differential Lock (EDL).[4] Open front differential, Electronic Differential Lock (EDL).[4] [edit]Vectoring quattro system Audi's new sport differential, debuted 'torque vectoring' to quattro generation V. The Audi sport differential allowed the dynamic allocation of torque across the rear axle of the debut vehicle: the B8 (2008) S4, and is now an optional addition to all quattro vehicles, which continue to use the 40:60 asymmetric Torsen (Type "C") centre differential. The sport differential replaces the normal open rear differential while the front axle still rely on an open differential with EDL.[4] The torque vectoring rear axle differential is designed & manufactured by Audi and is being offered on Audi A4, A5, A6 and their derivatives (including “RS” models). The "Sport Differential" selectively distributes torque to the rear axle wheels thereby generating a yaw moment, which improves handling and also stabilizes the vehicle when it oversteers or understeers, thereby increasing safety. The sport differential operates by using two superposition ("step up") gears at the differential, which are operated via multi-plate clutches each side of the differential crown wheel. When required by the software (using lateral and longitudinal yaw sensors, the ABS wheel sensors, and a steering wheel sensor), the control software (located in a control unit close to the rear differential), actuates the relevant clutch pack. This has the effect of taking the output shaft drive through the step-up gear to the attached wheel, whilst the other shaft continues to drive its wheel directly (i.e. the clutch pack not actuated). The higher speed output shaft produces increased torque to the wheel, producing a yaw (turning) moment. In normal operation increased torque is delivered to the wheel on the outside of the turn thereby increasing the vehicles turning moment, in other words, its willingness to turn in the Direction required by the steering wheel. [edit]quattro generation VI Audi debuted the 6th generation of quattro in the 2010 RS5. The key change in generation VI is the replacement of the Torsen Type "C" centre differential with an Audi-developed "Crown Gear" differential (see above). The net result of this advance in quattro is the ability of the vehicle electronics to fully manage the vehicle dynamics in all traction situations, whether in cornering, acceleration or braking or in any combination of these. [edit]BorgWarner jezeli sie myle prosze sprostowac……. blokade centralna ma wiele samochodow : jak np mojej zony 4-runner V8 limited……, moj samochod tez….. Użytkownik jan koval edytował ten post 17 listopad 2010 - 00:32

jak zawsze ; cos za cos jak spakujesz w tubees masz gwarancje jak juz mowilem ; zabiera czasu wlozenie 2 par ja to robie w doum na stole do tunning'u a w hotelach na lozku hotelowym mialem te miekkie, pare typow i nie chronia tak jak nalezy. kolka w sporttubes sa ok - "terenowe" z kolei zabieraja wiecej miejsca…… natomiast duze wory z usztywnieniem od spodu sa bardziej wszechtronne i latwiejsze do spakowania